Simple Morning-After Eye Makeup: aka What I do when I get Puffy After-Party Eyes
Taking a break from the glittery party looks to insert a “palate-cleanser”, especially for those of you longing for some neutral/simple makeup looks. This is something I tend to go for both when I’m feeling lazy, and also when my eyes get puffy after a late night, or too much drinking/eating/crying.
A note on puffiness:
Puffy eyes are different from general dark circles because the flesh around the eyes are swollen. While most tutorials and guides will tell you to apply bright, soft colors around the eyes after a late night so you can look more awake, applying soft pastels or shimmery shades on puffy lids is going to make them look even more pillowy and marshmallow-like.
What you really need to do is to add some definition and shade in the right places, without weighing your eyes down with too much makeup. (That will just draw more attention there.) This is a look you can do if you have very thick or heavy lids that you want to visually “reduce” as well.
P.S. This is also a perfectly-simple yet defined neutral lid for school or work.
Step 1: Aside from some salmon-toned concealer under the eyes to correct the oh-so-visible veins and darkness, I like to use BB Cream as a lid primer. Not only does it hold shadow nicely, but it’s also a lot better for the skin than the regular primer.
Avoid too much powder in and under the eye area as it can grab in any fine lines and make your skin look worse.
Step 2: Pick a soft beige-pink satin or matte shadow (MAC Yogurt is pretty good) and pack that onto the inner half of the lids. The slight pink undertone won’t look visible on the lids, but helps to illuminate and correct any darkness without adding a load of shimmer.
Step 3: On the outer half of the lids, pick a matte brown shadow, mix it with a little of the soft beige shade from earlier to soften the color, and then apply it to the outer half of the lids. This provides some shading and contouring, and helps to “recede” puffy lids a little. Avoid applying too much dark color to the socket line or you will do the reverse.
Step 4: Along the upper lash line, apply a stroke of black liner from the outside in, keeping it very thin at the inner corners. What you’ll do in the next step is what’s going to “mask” the puffy lid by creating a false shadow.
Step 5: Using the same shadow brush from earlier, just buff black and forth along the line to smudge and smoke it out until it becomes quite a soft charcoal shade over most of your mobile lid. This draws attention to the lash line, and also recedes the puffy lid area further.
Now, you can simply curl your lashes and apply dark mascara to finish.
Final tip for mascara: The lower lid is usually also slightly puffy, and applying dark shadow there can look overly dramatic for the day. Simply apply mascara to the central section of the lower lashes. This adds definition to your lash line, casts a little shade over the puffy area beneath, but doesn’t look like you’re wearing heaps of eye makeup.
Other tips for quick puffy-eye remedying:
We don’t always have time to lie back with slices of cucumber or chilled tea bags on our eyes. This is what I used to do back in my “wilder days” when I would party ‘til the lights came on, about 3-4 nights a week, and still had to look presentable for work or shoots the next day. (Yowch.)
1. Products with some caffeine can drain the eye quickly (or at least much faster than leaving them as is), and one of the BEST products I’ve ever tried is Origins No Puffery. I read about this a few years back when some models listed this as the best fix for puffy eyes when they’ve been out partying and need to look good for shows and shoots the next day. Pop this in the fridge, and pat a bit around the entire orbital area when your eyes are puffy. It usually drains the eye area significantly in about 5-15 minutes.
2. Apply pressure to the orbital area to drain it. Clarins has a great facial massage sequence that I do to drain excess water from the face, whether or not I’m using their product, although pairing it with a caffeine-infused facial treatment product DOES give you faster and better results.